Adapting to Change: The Impact of Climate on Scottish Winter Climbing Routes
As the climate shifts, so too do the landscapes and conditions of Scottish winter climbing routes, presenting both challenges and opportunities for enthusiasts.
Winter climbing in Scotland has always been an exhilarating experience, with its rugged terrain and unpredictable weather offering a true test of skill and resilience. Yet, as temperature variations grow and snowfall becomes less predictable, we must adapt, seeking new routes and approaches to sustain our passion for winter mountaineering in Scotland.
These changing Scottish winters demand a more flexible mindset, where understanding the altered risks and conditions becomes crucial. If Scottish winter climbing and mountaineering are to remain memorable adventures for all who seek the thrill of the Scottish Highlands, then we must adapt.
Read more about the future of Scottish winter climbing.
Impact of Climate Change on Scottish Winter Climbing
Climate change is reshaping Scottish winter climbing routes. With rising temperatures and significant fluctuations over short periods, traditionally reliable routes and conditions are becoming less so. This shift impacts both the safety and accessibility of climbing routes.
Economic impacts are also evident. Guiding businesses face challenges as seasons shorten, with a lack of guaranteed conditions potentially affecting revenue. However, this change can drive innovation in climbing strategies and business adaptations.
Altered Scottish Winter Conditions and Risks
Adapting to Scottish winter climbing today involves understanding the changing risks. With unpredictable weather and ever-evolving conditions, climbers face risks that have always existed but now vary in prominence.
- Ice conditions vary greatly; last season was a very poor ice-climbing season in Scotland. The two seasons before that saw some great ice, though only above 1000m. As always with winter in Scotland, there are no hard and fast rules. We have enjoyed some good lower-level water ice routes over the last couple of years during prolonged cold spells. Due to poor conditions recently, there are some 'ice routes' that are being climbed as mixed climbs.
- Avalanche risks are more pronounced with fluctuating temperatures. Significant shifts in snow cover over short periods can greatly change avalanche conditions. Moreover, with poor snow winters over the last few seasons, it was almost possible to walk up to the start of the route on rock/turf. Climbers may be losing skills required to make sensible decisions regarding avalanches. The notably increased risk of very nasty run-outs into boulder fields in the event of an avalanche, or a slip or trip over the last few winters, is also a concern.
- Loose rock on routes has always been an issue, more so early season before the crags get covered in consolidated snow. With the significant temperature changes we have observed and their 'resetting' nature, it can be 'summer' one day and 'winter' the next. There has been an increased number of incidents with loose rock being pulled off by climbers, as there is no 'glue' holding the crags together.
- Climbing routes in less-than-ideal conditions has always been an issue, and waiting for perfect conditions means it may never happen. The lack of good snow and frozen turf can present an issue with the grade of the route and the security of the climbing. Climbers should be aware of these factors and how they may affect the grade of the route and increase the risk.
To mitigate these risks, climbers need to update their knowledge and be considerate of their route choice, taking note of current conditions and not just assuming it will be the same as always. Engaging in continuous learning through resources like the UKC forums can be invaluable.
Adapting Scottish Winter Climbing Strategies
Flexible Climber Options
To adapt, climbers should broaden their options. This involves exploring less traditional routes and being ready to change plans based on weather conditions.
- Research alternative routes: Use resources like UK Hillwalking for ideas, along with guidebooks and conditions pages.
- Stay informed: Regularly check weather forecasts and route conditions.
- Maintain flexibility: Be prepared to adjust plans on short notice.
By staying informed and flexible, climbers can safely explore new areas and keep the adventure alive. This approach also encourages a deeper connection with the changing landscape.
What might Scottish winter climbing look like in the future?
Scottish winter climbing and the standard of climbing have changed dramatically over the last 20 years or so. With climbers now readily climbing into the higher grades, often on steeper rock climbs with better gear than more 'traditional' routes.
Ice is ice, and climbing any ice route means just that, but obviously, conditions and appearance can vary greatly, also meaning the grade can sometimes fluctuate. Scottish winter climbing has a strong ethos that a mixed route should appear 'white.' Or the conditions are 'wintery' enough that climbing with hands and rock shoes isn't an option. The turf should also be frozen to reduce the environmental impact of the sport, but also to not harm the grade or quality of the route by stripping out essential turf.
These 'rules' are open to interpretation by different individuals, but in the future, will we need to adapt, and winter climbing conditions just need to rely on the route being frozen alone? There are plenty of other climbing areas around the world where axes and crampons are used on 'dry' rock and frozen turf, and the presence of snow is not required. Might this be a way forward for Scottish winter?
Mountaineering routes have less strict rules and, much like elsewhere in the world, you just climb what you find. Meaning you may not need to get out the winter gear until halfway up or even just for the last few metres.
One thing is for sure, none of us knows what each winter season is going to throw at us in Scotland, but I do believe we are going to have to adapt if we want to continue climbing in the winter in Scotland.
Evolving Guiding and Instruction
Business Adaptations
For guiding businesses, adaptation is essential. This involves updating services to reflect the changing climate and client needs. It is becoming more and more common for guiding/instruction to be delivered when, unfortunately, there is limited or no snow throughout the Scottish season.
Guiding and instruction companies have always tried to have some flexibility with what and when they offer winter activities. Moving bookings by a day or so, or rearranging for different dates in the future. After all, they want their customers to have a great experience.
The changes we have seen over these last few years indicate that this level of flexibility just isn't sustainable. If half of an instructor's/guide's wages disappear during the winter months, then it is no longer going to be a sustainable job for many.
Businesses and customers alike need to have a more open mind about what is going to be possible and work to make the most of whatever conditions there are at the time.
As a customer, taking out insurance for cancellation means you should have some protection should the weather prevent your course from going ahead. That way, you are not out of pocket, and the instructors/guides can still make a living and be around for years to come.
By staying proactive, businesses can not only survive but thrive in the evolving landscape of Scottish winter climbing.
